Da passarela para o seu guarda-roupas
Quando se fala de moda, muitos pensam que o que aparece nas passarelas é algo impossível de se conseguir ou, ainda, algo que não irá sair das passarelas. Mas o que é apresentado nas semanas de moda, vai para as lojas – não só das que desfilaram porque todas se ligam em pesquisas e tendências que são ou estão prestes a serem lançadas a cada estação.
Antes de chegar por completo na loja, elas aproveitam pra lançar simultaneamente as futuras tendências em coleções rápidas no decorrer da estação ou, então, perto da transição de uma pra outra, como coleções de Dia dos Namorados, Dia dos Pais e outras datas comemorativas. Sim, isso é feito para que a marca já comece a ter uma noção maior do que irá pegar como moda ou não, onde certa tendência ficou mais forte e onde ficou mais fraca – nos referindo a locais e pessoas.
Uma vez que está clara essa noção, a marca – que tem diversas lojas e franquias em várias cidades, direciona a coleção de estação para cada lugar que tem a necessidade de usá-la. Claro que elas já têm uma noção devido pesquisas feitas anteriormente, mas o acesso à informação de moda faz com que as pessoas mudem rapidamente seus conceitos sobre o que vestir e o que não vestir. Mas o foco dessa matéria não é o mercado da moda e sim o que podemos aproveitar dessa loucura toda.
Acabamos de falar sobre o lançamento de coleções rápidas – as temáticas, e elas são as melhores formas de você ficar por dentro da moda atual e futura, gastando menos e tendo mais variações. Vamos mostrar os exemplos em visuais que criei e identificaremos algumas tendências que foram apresentadas no Verão 2014, nas semanas de moda, e que já aparecem nessas coleções temáticas, ou mesmo nas coleções de inverno, e poderão ser aproveitadas na próxima estação.
A moda da passarela não vai totalmente para o seu dia-a-dia porque o que é apresentado nas semanas de moda, muitas das vezes aparece com um certo exagero para que chame atenção. Mas fiz um garimpo de peças que podem ser usadas atualmente e aproveitadas na Primavera/Verão 2013 2014 que bate à porta. Vamos aos exemplos!
No Fashion Rio foi apresentado um visual exatamente assim. Por ter gostado muito do que vi no Fashion Rio, e por achar que tem bem a ver comigo, claro, criei este visual inspirado na proposta deles. Somente um exemplo, tá? Dessa inspiração, vem o toque pessoal. Como? Eu curti essa combinação do cano médio com uma calça mais larga, mas não curto o modelo do calçado, o corte e a cor da calça. O que fiz? Usei o que foi desfilado de modo diferente, condizendo com meu estilo: Substituí a calça por uma mais justa com o mesmo tom porém não com a mesma lavagem, o calçado com spikes dourados, por um mais neutro, com o mesmo trabalho de aplicação só que com tachas e não contrastantes com a cor do calçado, que mudou o modelo mas continuou com a pegada esportiva. O mesmo foi feito com a jaqueta e a camiseta que substituiu a camisa da inspiração. Outro item inspirado e trazido para o estilo foram os óculos arredondados com uma pegada retrô-futurista, com lentes escuras ao invés de espelhada.
Vamos a esse exemplo que é mais básico?
Nesse modelo que pegamos como inspiração, e que também foi desfilado no Verão 2014 porém no SPFW, a influência vem da cor usada na peça e da medida dela. Então peguei uma calça da mesma cor mas optei por material e lavagem diferentes, trabalhando a barra, dobrando-a para ter a mesma proposta da inspiração, mas não o mesmo corte. Foi adaptado ao meu estilo.
Conseguiram compreender? Estar na moda não é usar o que exatamente é apresentado nas passarelas, mas sim saber mesclar tendências, trazê-las pro seu estilo aplicando toques pessoais deixando assim algo bem personalizado. Você trabalhará de modo que condiz com seu estilo e comportamento mas estará, assim, optando por combinações iguais às mostradas aqui se seu estilo é esse. Mas libere a criatividade porque essa brincadeira com a moda é fácil de ser feita e é necessária para que você não pareça um clone de outra pessoa que não sabe trabalhar o estilo ou do modelo que foi apresentado nas passarelas.
Vamos aprender a mesclar tendências e alterá-las um pouco?
Vamos colocar a mão na massa e mostrar que sim, você tem o poder de mudar um pouco mais a tendência. Nos dois modelos acima há listras, tanto na vertical que aparecem mais largas quanto na horizontal que surgem mais estreitas. Selecionei o estreito de um com a posição do outro, e a cor das listras foi alteradas e jogada ao calçado. A calça foi inspirada no visual anterior a esses dois – o do lance de cores. Como listras e bainhas dobradas são muito característicos do náutico, finalizamos com uma sapatilha dockside que não foge muito do contexto do que foi apresentado nas passarelas. Pois se trata de um calçado de uma cor que apareceu em outras peças, é um clássico que quebra a formalidade da combinação – uma tendência que pegará no Verão 2014.
Veja o resultado:
Isso que você deverá fazer em casos comuns a esses. Não é porque certa cor, corte, estampa ou outra tendência apareceu em alguma peça, que você terá que fazer a mesma combinação ou se limitar a usá-la somente em peças iguais e com o mesmo trabalho.
Consegue ver o que é trabalhar o estilo e se inspirar no que há de novo na moda e no mercado e trazer pra si? Não precisa ser exatamente da mesma marca porque, hoje em dia, todas as marcas seguem tendências que são apresentadas nas semanas de moda. Não por copiarem, mas por todas terem acesso a pesquisas e contratarem esse tipo de serviço que eu, Alex, exerço para não errar na hora de montar uma coleção. Assim fica fácil achar o que é apresentado nas passarelas do Brasil. Não tem desculpa. Se consegui encontrar nas coleções que antecedem a moda Verão 2014, imaginem quando ela realmente chegar nas lojas.
Em breve traremos mais ideias referentes às mostradas neste post porque o assunto é extenso e iremos apresentar novos exemplos de como trazer da passarela ao dia-a-dia. Antes de finalizar, quero agradecer a Riachuelo que – forneceu todas as peças usadas nessa matéria. A Josy Ronconi, responsável pela maquiagem e correção, e a Ariel Bego pelos cliques maravilhosos que foram feitos no Parque da Cidade de São José dos Campos.
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O Moda Sem Censura é o mais completo blog de moda masculina do Brasil. Com dicas de moda para homens, tendência masculina, estilo masculino, cabelo masculino e outras coisas que todo homem deve saber ao querer mudar o visual e ficar por dentro do universo masculino.
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